I have a 1985 Honda VF500F I’ve been restoring. I have the entire bike together and it rides great for 15 minutes. After that it wants to stall at idle, and then anything under 4,000 rpm if I can keep it going. I have put a lot of work into solving this issue, here is what I have ruled out:
There are no vacuum leaks, and the filter is in good shape.
During the investigation I discovered that a hose connecting the head near cylinder 4 to the air boost was cracked, and have repaired it. The idle has been adjusted repeatedly without success, along with the air/fuel mixture screws (4). It may be worth noting that the carbs are not perfectly synced, as the 3 adjustable carbs cannot be adjusted enough to match the one unadjustable carb, but they are very close. The bike is will not start without throttle blipping.
I really appreciate the consideration and time spent answering this question, thanks.
The bike is completely stock, with no modifications of any kind.
clip (avec son des moteurs) de passage plutot violent en rally groupe B lancia delta s4 , peugeot 205 turbo16 , mazda rx7 , ford rs200 , renault 5 maxi turbo , audi quattro s1 , opel manta , nissan x?x?x?
While getting a tune up on my 99 dodge durango, my mechanic said i have a problem: One of my cylinders are dead. He said that my v8 engine is only running on 5 cylinders, and that i need a new engine. Does this sound accurate?
He said the “head” cylinder. I’m not sure if that makes a difference. He went on to say that it is no way to pass emissions without a new engine. Does this change anything?
I am having problems with my coolant system. The radiator has been flushed twice and refilled. Still, the coolant becomes gunky the next day. My check engine light has been on for a month now, and I just discovered that it is probably because of my coolant problems. From what I understand, “a cooling system failure can result in your engine literally melting down.” So, my main concern is…
…Is there hope that my engine may be able to be repaired instead of having to be replaced, and if so, how much should a repair like that cost? It is a ’98 Ford Contour.
Please answer only if you are a certified mechanic. Thank you in advance!
Sheesh! I wish I would have known that keeping track of your coolant is just as important as getting regular oil changes. I probably wouldn’t have this problem right now, if I had known beforehand :-/
My 2 seat Sunl Go Kart will not turn on unless I pour the gas straight into the carburetor and by the time I get it to start moving it shuts off. It wont operate if I try to let it run by itself. The engine turns over but doesn’t start. It has been sitting in the Garage for 1 year and I have cleaned the Carburetor with throttle body.
I noticed when I looked up head gaskets it said that I had to replace the head bolts as well. Why exactly can’t you reuse the same head bolts when putting it back together?
I just recently bought a used car from a private seller. ’99 Mazda 626 LX, 4 cyl., manual for $2900 (that’s after I talked the guy down a few hundred) at 119k mileage. The cars body has been modded a bit, plus, some engine work in the past (just normal maintenance and a few updates). So, the car looks amazing and runs just fine. However, I just found out today that the cars motor is dying. The previous 2 owners were friends so either 1 or both of them drove the car hard and took it to its limit because the engine is worn down. The result, car is eating oil like crazy. I filled the oil to the top with 4 quarts then just 4 days later, the engine had already burned up about 1/2 a quart. So, other than the oil issue, the car is just fine. It does run fine too as I said above, I just have to keep adding about 1 quart of oil once a week. However, I now have 2 choices to make and I was wanting to get some opinions before I make any decisions because I love this car and it’s everything I’ve want in a car, however, I believe that attachment could be clouding my judgement about making a realistic decision. So, my 2 choices are… 1) I keep the car and after I make some extra money at my job, I build a new motor and replace the current one which will fix the oil issue, therefore putting my odometer at 0 which initially gives me a new car, however, the transmission won’t be new, nor will the clutch. I’ll probably have to replace the clutch in another 10k miles or so because it’s a manual and I was told those have to be replaced after a certain point, but with how little I drive, I won’t have to worry about going a full 10k for a few years. Fixing the motor will cost me about 1k to 1.5k ..maybe a bit less cause I’ll be doing the work myself…or 2) I sell the car as it is (which is exactly how I bought it) and get my money back and start looking for another car. For anyone who wants to know…my personal choice is that I keep the car and redo the motor, however, I’m wondering if it’s really worth putting about $3900 to $4400 (that’s the total for buying car and redoing motor) into this car. I mean, it is a very nice and very clean car, but is it really worth it? Any suggestions on what I should do will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The Dude, M W, and Mikyshell,
Thank you all for your responses. Putting all your advice together, you’ve all helped me reach my decision to keep the car and work on it. Thanks again, I really appreciate the advice.
I just bought a VW Beetle 99 with 140k miles last month. It passed state I/M tests. It runs good. A week before, the engine died due to transmission problems. The dealer fixed the problem now.
I want to know how I know if the engine’s condition is good or not?
When the car needs to have tune up?
I am planning to have road trip next week. I want to make sure everything runs good. I dont want to have troubles when I am at the location between 2 cities.
My head gaskets going on my 97 cavalier and I don’t have a way of getting up to a store to buy anymore antifreeze after I use the BarsLeak. So could I just take the drained antifreeze I drained prior to the treatment back in as a substitute for now?
the government subsidized repair station says car needs new engine…but it actually runs with lots of exhaust and noise…cant be fixed to pass smog test without new engine…would like to sell but dont know how or if anyone would buy a car in this condition…should i just sell for parts?…or try to sell car as is….need as much money as i can get out of car….soon…it is a Hyundai Accent Silver 1998 4 Door..everything else in good working order…please help with answer to my problem…thanks
Engine runs great, (350 reman roller motor). Cannot find this code in any manual. My diagnostic instrument shows– Manufacture control, auxiliary emission controls. I live in a state that requires E-Check. They will not pass my van if any codes( check engine light) show.Help! I paid a lot for this engine & can’t use my Van.
www.v8tvshow.com – This is part 8 in a multi-part series covering the custom 422 cubic-inch stroker engine build performed by master engine builder Bill Trovato at BTR Performance for our turbocharged 1971 Olds project called the “S71″. This video outlines the choice of the Edelbrock intake manifold and the installation of the FAST fuel injectors and rails. Although this video series features and Olds engine, the valuable, race-proven techniques shown by Trovato apply to any performance engine build.
